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Everything's Coming up Rosé
The summer of 1999. The 40 Hampton guests ooohed and aahed. From their surprised and satisfied expressions, one might have thought that I was serving a 1947 Cheval Blanc. Instead, the wine was a blushing wonder -- the 1998 Wolffer Sagpond Rosé. The Hampton crowd's response was a refreshing one, and it wasn't just because its crisp and refreshing flavors meshed so well with the chilled tomato and red pepper soup. And it got me thinking: Why is the response to this lovely wine usually, well, less than rosy? Rosé, along with Champagne and dessert wine, belongs to the "misunderstood stepchildren" category of wines.
Because of its pale pink color, rosé is often associated with that other pink wine -- the Kool-Aid of libations -- White Zinfandel. Though White Zinfandel certainly has its place -- a Big Mac comes to mind -- rosé's compatibility extends well beyond the "Special Sauce."
Classically speaking, rosé (the French word for pink) is made by keeping the skins of the red grapes in contact with the fermenting juice just long enough to achieve a blush color. The resulting colors will vary from light pink to deeper salmon and cherry colors. The styles and flavors of these wines can also vary, from sparkling to dry, off dry to quite sweet.
The best versions tend to be fermented totally dry -- striking a wonderful balance of fruit, alcohol and acidity -- and the most famous of these come from the south of France. The wines should be served well-chilled and drunk when young (an important note: with rosé wines, older is not better). Most rosé wines can be found for well under $15.00, although rosé Champagne ranges from $20 to $250 for the Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé (certainly a fit bottle with which to ring in the new year).
Get past your prejudice, and learn to embrace rosé wine as one of life's small pleasures. Fire up the grill, throw the shrimp on the barbie, and let everything come up rosé.
Rosé Round-Up: The Best of The Bunch
California
Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare: A Rhône-style blend from one of California's wackiest and most talented winemakers.
New York
Wolffer Sagpond Rosé: They loved it in the Hamptons! The Wall Street Journal recently hailed it as one of the best in America.
France
Domaine Ott Bandol Rosé: The Cheval Blanc of rosé! Considered to be among the world's finest.
Chapoutier Côtes-du Rhône "Bellerouche:" Approachable, likeable, and affordable.
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