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Friendship, Time and Memory -- In A Glass
All the ingredients were assembled: 3 days in Vermont during the peak of fall foliage, 6 close friends, 8 sacks of gourmet groceries, and 12 bottles of wine. I had surrounded myself with the things I consider most dear: wine, food and friends -- analogies to a gastronomic version of the Big Chill did not go unnoticed.
Our eyes gleamed with anticipation as we unpacked and proudly displayed our delicious dozen on the fireplace mantle. For me, opening and sipping each wine would be a study in friendship, time and memory. Much like my friends, the wines were a diverse bunch. Some were old friends I had not spent time with in a long while, some I have a daily relationship with. Each wine had a story, each was at different stage in life, and, with every sip, each would leave an everlasting imprint. Tasting these varied offerings over the course of a weekend would be eye opening and enlightening.
The Karlsmuhle Lorenhofer Riesling Auslese 1997 was a fine place to begin. Served as an aperitif and paired with an international assortment of cheeses and pates, the wine's balance of sweetness, acidity, and modest alcohol was a study in why German Riesling reigns supreme. And yet, while the selection was enjoyed by all, the wine was still a baby. Endowed with an acidity that could take the enamel of your teeth, this wine will evolve for years -- even decades. (I'm glad I have several more bottles in my collection.)
We served the Elio Altare Barolo 1994 with a pumpkin ravioli, and the match worked fine. The Nebbiolo grape (the grape of all Barolo) strikes a wonderful balance of power and strength combined with firm acidity. Those vintage watchers who know that 1994 was a difficult a.k.a. poor vintage, should take note: some wines that deliver the most pleasure for drinking tonight are from modest vintages.
I could have sipped the Bernard Morey Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Boudines" 1997 the entire weekend. There is something so complex, so multifaceted, and so magical about well-crafted mature white Burgundy, especially when produced by such a fine winemaker. The wine exhibited a rich palate with exciting aromas of warm fruit, mushroom, yeast and toast. I cupped the glass, and savored each sip and smell as if it were a fine cognac. I wish we had brought a second bottle.
With the pork tenderloin, we compared the Lake's Folley 1993 and the Freemark Abbey "Bouche" 1980 -- two stellar Cabernet Sauvignons from different regions and different decades. The Lake's Folley was still jam packed with warm fruit flavors and spice reminiscent of black pepper. The Bouche was an old sage -- fragile, earthy, and smooth, with a distinct minty quality - a great example of finesse trumping power.
Looking out the window and gazing into the Fall Mountains, blazing with the nuances of autumn leaves, I looked at my friends, took a sip of 1980 Cabernet, and smiled contently. The moment could not have been improved upon. I have already marked the second week of October 2002 on my calendar for another reunion with friends and wines.
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