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Wine and Fish: An Ocean of Possibilities
Perhaps the most basic tenet in the wine and food-pairing curriculum is the old adage - and forgive me if you have heard this before - "red wine with meat, white wine with fish." I have no idea which proverbial sommelier began what is now considered a truism in the wine and food pairing curriculum. Maybe it was thought that the simple color-coding of wine and food combining would make it easier for the American microwave mentality - "I want lots of information in an easy to digest version." Well the blanket rule of white wine with fish (WWWF) is not only simplistic, but also quite limiting.
Let's start at the beginning. Fish is often oily. And in the same way that a squeeze of lemon will often do our palates good by cutting through the oils, a white wine with its often crisp acidity will function the same way - leaving our mouth clean and ready for the next bite. In addition, there is an element often found in red wine, tannin, that when combined with many fish dishes, can both interfere with the flavors and create a fishy and metallic taste. So it seems that the "WWWF" adage - in its most basic form holds true.
I suggest though, that while this rule is not inherently incorrect, it does in know way account for the diverse flavors of the sea, nor in the myriad ways in which we prepare fish.
There is of course a difference between a grilled piece of tuna and a broiled piece of filet of sole. The texture is different. The tuna is much more meaty and oily. Some fish are so flavorful and rich that it is more akin to beef - or rather the fish that swims behaves like a cow that moos!
Also, with respect to preparation, this too can vary dramatically, the same piece of salmon can be prepared a variety of ways -- smoked, poached, grilled, sautéed, broiled, and even jambalayad! You get the idea.
So where does that leave us when faced with a fish choice in a restaurant and the often daunting (and often ill-conceived) restaurant wine list. That oaky white low acid, full-flavored Chardonnay from California may not be the best choice. Here are some basic guidelines:
Drink what you like. Don't let it be a snooty sommelier, a wine critic, or even this author that is the arbiter of your taste. If you like it, drink it.
When in doubt marry the flavor and texture of the food with the flavor and texture of the wine. Lighter fish preparations often work better with lighter wines. Fuller flavored fish dishes can stand up to richer wines.
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